I have never tried any other method, although the descriptions of using a Dremel sound like pure torture. This tool works like a charm, removing the tang perfectly flush – no further work is needed. To convert it for “luthiery”, you need to file a small notch across the cutting face, just big enough for the fret to lie sideways with the tank flush against the surface. The fret tang nipper is made from a sheet metal nibbler, which you can get online for under $20.
No matter, I can print a new one, I will need a second one for the guitar anyway.Getting set up to do the frets. That is printed on thin delicate transparency material, and I put it away someplace safe. You might notice it is missing the ‘Factor’ badge under the pickguard. Some final polishing with Meguiars and Pledge, and it looks nice and shiny. I think the Radiata glue-up looks fantastic. I installed a couple of dings in the front when I dropped a pickup, but they are not noticeable. There is also active bass and treble controls, with a passive backup mode.Īnd now for the mechanicals. The switch controls the mode of the pickups – coils in series or parallel. The switch at the lower-right has 13 connections coming and going luckily I drew a diagram of the whole thing before I took it apart. I got all the electrics reconnected on the Kubickish bass. I shot a coat of poly over the Factor bass body and hung it up for what is now about two months, so it should be good and hard for final polishing. I’ll let this dry for a week, then smooth down the new spots and sand off the overspray, and they will be ready for a final coat of clear. All surfaces are now perfect.īoth bodies needed a little touch-up to the dark edges where I sanded through or almost through. I smoothed everything down with 1200 grit. The wood grain and glue joints had pulled through the poly coat, as expected. These have been hanging up for several months, and are cured very hard.
The bass body gets the same treatment as the guitar.
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